Escuta Levino

Last night we went to the Bloco Escuta Levino gathering, which was essentially a huge dancing parade through the streets of Recife, from the Praça Maciel Pinheiro to Recife Antigo. Maestro Lessa’s orchestra played and the Guerreiros do Passo performed. The Guerreiros created a roda at the beginning of the parade and gave a taste of what frevo might have looked like in the 1940s, in full costume and dancing in the style of the time.

This was the first bloco I’ve been to where, despite the crowds, people made space to dance full out. We would walk for a bit, and then, once the mood hit us, we would “cair no passo” again, finding a space to kick and jump and swing. Every so often, a roda would form amidst the crowds, and some amazing dancers showed off their tricks, maneuvering their sombrinhas and some full-sized guarda-chuvas (umbrellas) under their legs, between their legs, behind their backs, and up above their heads.

Indeed, the umbrellas came in handy. It poured down rain, which only made the frevo dancing more fervent! We didn’t have umbrellas, so we were soaked…and happy.

Roda de Frevo com Maestro Spok

Yesterday we saw some great frevo performances at the roda de frevo com Maestro Spok in front of the Paço do Frevo! We saw Otávio Bastos, of the great YouTube channel Mexe Com Tudo, Wilson Aguiar of Brincantes Das Ladeiras, dance master Ferreirinha do Passo, and Jae Shin, the champion of the 2017 European frevo competition, among many others. Check out the video to see their individual styles and nuanced interpretations of the music!

Paço do Frevo, Recife Antigo. 4 de fevereiro de 2018.

Manuel Castomo

Today I attended a very interesting class at the Paço do Frevo with Manuel Castomo, a dancer/musician artist from Mozambique. It was interesting to hear his story. He uses dance and music to understand his “confused” identity and his ancestry, paying homage to both of his parents through his movement. He talked about his experience coming to Brazil from Mozambique, explaining that many black people in the African diaspora return to Africa to seek their roots and better understand themselves. He, however, left Africa for a part of the diaspora, Brazil, in order to better understand what Africa is and what it means to be African. He has an interesting perspective, that is apparent in the way he moves, speaks, and plays music.

Concurso de Passistas

It was great to see the second day of the frevo passista competition! I saw the adult male competitors and the female competitors for the “frevo de rua folião” category (or “street frevo”). I saw a lot of really impressive and polished dancers, and I also saw a lot of creativity in the movement that I hadn’t seen before. It was quite a spectacle, with some very bright and glittery costumes. The Pátio de São Pedro was almost empty, however, much to the chagrin of some audience members who are concerned about how much longer the competition will continue.

Presentation by the winners of the second day of the passista competition / Apresentação dos vencedores do segundo dia do Concurso de Passistas:

Pátio de Santa Isabel, Recife. 27 de janeiro de 2018.

Egberto Gismonti & João do Pife

It was incredible to see two legendary musicians on stage, with two very different styles of music but an obvious respect and affection for each other. Egberto Gismonti opened the show with what looked like a 12-string guitar; he played with great virtuosity, feeling, and rhythm. He invited João do Pife and his band on the stage, and they engaged in some banter and fun storytelling.

João do Pife has a wonderful stage presence, and even without understand everything he said (my Portuguese is slowly improving), I couldn’t help but laugh and smile. The different rhythms in his music brought me into different worlds–from a slower waltz-like feel, to a faster paced polka, to a groovy baião, and more.

Egberto returned to the stage to play some Heitor Villa-Lobos and other tunes on the piano, which took my breath away. He played impossibly complex pieces, including varying rhythms on each hand, with great ease.

They closed the show together with a dialogue between the two styles that hearkened back to their verbal banter earlier in the show. What a pleasure to be present for this performance!

Teatro de Santa Isabel, Recife. 27 de janeiro de 2018.

Concurso de Rei Momo e Rainha do Carnaval 2018 – Recife

It was quite an experience to witness the competition for Recife’s Rei Momo and Rainha (Queen) of Carnival 2018. The Pátio de São Pedro was completely packed and there was excitement in the air. It was very difficult to see the stage, but I was able to watch through some people’s cellphone cameras. The competition had a bit of a beauty pageant feel, starting with a short 1-minute demonstration of frevo by each candidate, one after another, and then an interview/presentation section afterwards. I was truly impressed by the costumes, especially by the rainha candidate who came out with her sombrinha lit on fire, or the rei candidate who had a full golden wig and lights on his costume!


Pátio de São Pedro, Recife. 25 de janeiro de 2018.

Boi Marinho

It has been great fun to attend the weekly Boi Marinho rehearsals/jams at Rua da Moeda in Recife Antigo the past few weeks. The energy is infectious, and the leader, Helder Vasconcelos, knows how to get the crowd pumped for dancing and singing. As explained on Helder’s website, Boi Marinho is a “brincadeira da rua” that plays with elements from the dance and music tradition, cavalo marinho.

The guest band at this week’s event was Bongar Xambá, who brought the distinct coco rhythm to the soundscape, and transformed the way people danced.

Rua da Moeda, Recife Antigo. 23 de janeiro de 2018.

Prévias do Carnaval – Olinda

This was the first of what I hope will be many times experiencing the prévias in Olinda. We got there early so we watched as people filled in the space and groups began rehearsing. After a few hours, they finally started marching through the streets and we joined the crowd to follow them. We heard lots of maracatu, like the group Batuques de Pernambuco, and I was transfixed by the way the women danced with their shekeres. We also heard the brass sounds of the Pitombeira dos Quatro Cantos, who were accompanied by young frevo dancers from the group Frevança. By this time, we were packed shoulder to shoulder and were no longer walking, but instead being pushed from side to side and eventually moving forward.

Olinda, Brasil. 21 de janeiro de 2018.

Bloco da Saudade – VII Noite dos Flabelos

I have a lot of work to do to learn the lyrics of the songs that the frevo de bloco groups sing! This Bloco da Saudade event was filled with people in elaborate costumes and holding decorated flabelos to represent their group. The dancing to this slower style of frevo was more staid, but the energy came from everyone belting out the lyrics to the songs.

Later in the event, Mestre Lessa came out to lead the band in some exciting frevo de rua and frevo canção (the faster styles of frevo, the latter having lyrics). This was my moment to try some of the steps I’d been learning at classes with the Guerreiros do Passo. I think I still have some practicing to do! Luckily there will be countless opportunities this carnival season.

AABB (Associação Atlética Banco do Brasil, Graças, Recife). 19 de janeiro de 2018.

Boi Marinho

Boi Marinho is a “brincadeira da rua” that is led by Helder Vasconcelos, as described on his website. The performers with elements from the dance and music tradition, cavalo marinho, and their rehearsal on Rua da Moeda is open to anyone who wants to attend. Incredible energy!

Rua de Moeda, Recife. 16 de janeiro de 2018.

This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website or blog. The views and information presented here are my own and do not represent the Fulbright Program, CIES, or the U.S. Department of State.